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Heat a large heavy skillet over medium heat, then add 1 tablespoon oil and cook 2 to 3 pieces of fish, flesh side down, 2 minutes. Turn fish over and cook, pressing down on fish to stop fillets from curling (the scored skin will help), until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer pieces to a baking sheet and keep warm in a preheated 200-degree oven while cooking remaining batches of fish with more oil as necessary. Squeeze lime over fish before serving. Serve immediately with corn tortillas, salsa, rice and beans. Makes 6 servings.

From "Truly Mexican," by Roberto Santibanez With JJ Goode and Shelley Wiseman.

BASIC GUAJILLO ADOBO

--3 ounces guajillo chiles (12), wiped clean, stemmed, slit open, seeded and deveined --Water --2 garlic cloves, peeled --1½ teaspoons apple cider vinegar --¾ teaspoon fine salt OR 1½ teaspoons kosher salt --¾ teaspoon sugar --Rounded ¼ teaspoon ground cumin

Heat a comal, griddle or heavy skillet over medium-low heat, and toast chiles 2 or 3 at a time, turning over and pressing down on them with tongs frequently, until fragrant and insides have changed color slightly, about 1 minute per batch. Soak chiles in enough cold water to cover until soft, about 30 minutes. Drain and discard soaking water.

Put ¾ cup fresh water in blender jar with chiles and remaining ingredients. Blend until smooth, at least 3 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary to puree. If you'd like a silky texture, strain adobo through a medium-mesh sieve. Now use the highly flavored puree as a marinade for fish, seafood or meat. This adobo can be kept refrigerated up to 5 days or in freezer up to 1 month. Makes 1 ½ cups.

From "Truly Mexican," by Roberto Santibanez With JJ Goode and Shelley Wiseman.

RED PEANUT SAUCE (ENCACAHUATADO ROJO)

--1/3 pound tomato (about 1 medium) --½ ounce guajillo chiles (2), wiped clean, stemmed, slit open, seeded and deveined --2 to 4 dried rbol chiles, wiped clean and stemmed --4 cloves garlic, peeled --Mild olive oil OR vegetable oil --1 cup shelled skinless peanuts (5 ounces), preferably raw --1/8 teaspoon whole black peppercorns --2 whole cloves --¼ teaspoon dried thyme --¼ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican --4 to 5 cups stock (chicken OR other) --1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar OR more to taste --1 teaspoon sugar --½ teaspoon fine salt OR 1 teaspoon kosher salt --2 pounds pork tenderloin (2 to 3 pieces), silver skin and excess fat removed

Set oven to broil and preheat. Alternatively, you can preheat oven to 500 degrees F. If you're using the oven broiler, position rack 8 inches from heat source. Have ready a large bowl to hold ingredients as finished roasting and removing from oven.

Core the tomato and cut a small "X" through the skin on opposite end. Put tomato, cored side up, on a foil-lined baking pan. Roast without turning, until blackened on top and cooked to core, 20 to 30 minutes. Slip skin from the tomato.

Meanwhile, heat a comal, griddle or heavy skillet over medium-low heat and toast guajillo chiles, rbol chiles and garlic, turning over frequently, until guajillos are fragrant, about 1 minute, rbol chiles are dark brown, 3 to 4 minutes and garlic is just tender and golden brown with some blackened spots, 8 to 10 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat, and cook peanuts, stirring constantly, until deep golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer peanuts and oil to a medium bowl. Soak peanuts, roasted chiles, peppercorns, cloves, thyme and oregano in 2 ½ cups stock 30 minutes. Soaking the ingredients will make blending easier, but if you're in a hurry and have a good blender, you can skip this step and just add the stock when you blend.