The Belgian designer Raf Simons was named as the next artistic director of Christian Dior. The post has been empty for more than a year since the dramatic departure of John Galliano in March 2011.
The Belgian designer Raf Simons was named late on Monday as the
next artistic director of Christian Dior -- a post that had been
empty for more than a year since the dramatic departure of John
Galliano in March 2011.
"I feel fantastic," Mr. Simons said by telephone from his studio
in Antwerp. "It is one of the ultimate challenges, and a dream to go
to a place like Dior, which stands for absolute elegance, incredible
femininity and utter luxury."
Mr. Simons, 44, began his career in men's wear in 1995 and went
on to revitalize men's and women's lines at Jil Sander 10 years
later.
Now he has been chosen by Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief
executive of LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton to modernize Dior, the
most classic of Parisian couture houses. In a statement, LVMH said
that "Raf Simons' journey with the house of Dior will propel its
iconic style into the 21st century."
Mr. Simons will be in charge of haute couture, women's ready-to-
wear and accessories, starting with the couture show in July, while
keeping his eponymous men's line.
Mr. Arnault and Sidney Toledano, Dior's chief executive, began
searching for a new designer after Mr. Galliano was removed from the
post because he had made anti-Semitic slurs in a bar in Paris.
Several designers said they had turned down the house, apparently
seeing a post-Galliano role as a poisoned chalice.
The front runner, the American-born Marc Jacobs, design director
of Louis Vuitton, decided to stay where he was. In the meantime,
design direction at Dior was in the hands of Bill Gaytten, Mr.
Galliano's former assistant. LVMH's financial figures for 2011 show
that Dior's results were not affected.
Mr. Simons's name had been bandied about with other supposed
contestants in recent months, particularly after his on-off
courtship by the house of Yves Saint Laurent ended. The Dior
appointment is being made as the designer Hedi Slimane, once a men's
wear rival of Mr. Simons's, takes on the top job at Saint Laurent,
the fashion house owned by PPR, a major LVMH rival.
The Christian Dior heritage began with the romantic Mr. Dior
himself, a man who brought femininity to the postwar 1950s, building
the tiny waists and sweeping skirts of his voluptuous "flower women"
on his obsession with the Edwardian elegance of his early memories
of his mother. He died suddenly in 1957 after only 10 years at the
helm, to be followed by a young unknown, Yves Saint Laurent.
Mr. Simons's style could not be more different from that of the
founder: He has a modernist vision and a spare, linear style based
on fine tailoring. "My aim is a very modern Dior, but at the end of
the day, I also look back," he said, referring to what he calls "mid-
century modernism."
"I find that period between 1947 and 1957 extremely attractive,
and there was a lot of modernity," Mr. Simons said of Christian
Dior's designs. "There was the romantic appeal looking back to his
mother and the belle epoque, but there was also a constant evolution
in shape, changing proportions and the ideas connected to the World
War were revolutionary."
Mr. Simons comes from the Flemish town of Neerpelt, the only son
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News Column
Dior Turns to Raf Simons
April 10, 2012
Suzy Menkes
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